October 25, 2018
Pedro Sánchez, known to his friends as Pedrito, is a cook by vocation. One of just a handful who seduce through simplicity and hospitality. He enjoys leaving his surroundings and visiting other fellow cooks, soaking up everything gastronomic. He is particularly enthusiastic about the cuisines of Paco Morales and Josean Alija. The cuisine of the Basque cook and that of this cook from Jaén share an apparent simplicity that conceals any difficulty involved. His food is some of the most eloquent in this country today.
Bagá is synonymous with freedom. For Pedro, being in charge of his own destiny is much more important than not having the premises he dreamed of. A contradiction he brilliantly overcomes thanks to talent and organisation. The cuisine at Bagá is unconfined and does not resort to special effects. The techniques used are limited, as are the steps involved, yet all of this seduces diners who are delighted by the lack of fuss.
The initial impression you get when you go to Bagá is how small it is. It’s like entering the flat of a university student that has been decorated by their mother. But as you walk in, you realise that Bagá is special; a unique place. Pedro Sánchez gives form to dishes made from few ingredients, but which are perfectly balanced. Sensations that are predominantly harmonious and elegant, with subtle flavours that do not burst forth but are recognisable. And a light-handed use of fats affords his dishes a wonderful silkiness.
Dishes whose harmony is not immediately clear. Plating is sober with little decoration so that with only two or three ingredients dishes are constructed with apparent ease, successfully achieved via intuition and the work that goes into them. Balance and playing with different flavours are constant elements of his creations.
Foams and creams are frequently part of Sánchez’s combinations; these seek to offer, on the one hand, pleasing textures, and on the other, fresh flavours. Food that is truly elegant and based on the subtle expressions of flavour and which, for the most part, does not include concentrated stocks.
Pedro Sánchez manages to make the distance between his dishes and his diners a short one. He inspires spontaneity while setting aside barriers. Pedro has endeared Bagá to those who visit, making diners feel they are part of his success.